MGB Roadster to Norway's
North Cape 2001.
A couple of years ago we took our
MGB Roadster to the Outer Hebrides and thoroughly enjoyed a touring
holiday staying at B&B's on the islands. This time we wanted
something further afield. Planing our trip started in February
of this year, looking through the Fjord Line brochure we saw a
7 day inclusive self catering holiday to Norway. The ferry from
Newcastle to Bergen with accommodation in a log cabin (hutte)
a few miles inland. This would probably have been the sensible
option for a first try. However there was also a Fjord Line 17
day package staying in pre booked Hotels and with half board.
This was too tempting, if we extended our holiday we could drive
all the way up to the North Cape and return back to Bergen on
the Coastal Steamer. These boats run through out the year and
stop at many towns and villages to provide transport and supplies
to the outlying island communities along the Norwegian coast.
We booked our tickets early in March.
I gave the B a thorough service, replacing several components
and used the car for several longish return journeys to both Swavesey
and Wisbech to pick up replacement parts and spares to carry on
our trip. I guessed that in the far north of Norway there would
not be many stockists of MGB parts. None of the spares carried
were used with the exception of one inner tube when we had a puncture.
I have found that even at home it is worth carring a spare inner
tube.
Our journey began in late June with
the 150 mile run in hot sunshine from Lincoln up to Newcastle,
crossing overnight on the Jupiter we arrived in Bergen mid afternoon.
We drove on unhurried roads with little traffic the 60 miles through
stunning scenery but also countless tunnels to our first stop
where we soon found parking outside our hotel. After an excellent
buffet dinner we walked round the town and met up with two other
couples on more or less the same trip. It was possible, on booking,
to mix and match the hotels so there were variations to the routes.
Next day we were off after an early
breakfast to drive over the Vikafjell (985m) and take the ferry
across Sognefjord to Hella. A drive mostly beside the fjord through
a land of orchards and green fields, then the long climb with
a series of hairpin bends to the summit of Sognefjell at 1400m
with the temperature in the high 70s, this was our highest road.
According to the road book we were given this was designated an
"Adventure Road", having driven it we could see why!
On to our next stop at Dombas, just
off the main E6, a road we were to follow for many miles. After
the sun of the previous day we woke to light rain and the countryside
was not so spectacular. The driving was easy with the low speed
limits and heavy fines there was none of the speeding traffic
that we are used to at home. The many motor caravans on the road
were well able to maintain a steady and comfortable speed. Next
stop was Steinkjer just north of Trondheim. Now it was on to Mosjoen
for another overnight stop. Next day through Mo-I-Rana and in
a few miles we crossed the Arctic Circle.
At the Arctic Circle Centre we parked
to take the obligitary photo of car and globe.
Soon after this we saw the first
reindeer, a large herd close to the road and near to a Sami camp.
In some places these camps resembled
a car boot sale with stalls selling antlers, gloves, hats and
slippers etc, mostly reindeer related and all willing to accept
Visa or American Express!
Continuing
north up the E6 the scenery varied some bleak moorland stretches
and then past woodland areas with fast flowing rivers and waterfalls.
We were covering about 200 miles each day so no need to hurry.
The roads were good despite vehicles using studded tyres during
the winter months. On to Fauske and then another ferry, Narvik,
Storslett where our hotel was originally built for the Winter
Olympics at Lillehammer, later transported to be rebuilt on its
present site. Alta and finally Hammerfest, which claims to be
the most northerly town in the world. Over the years several towns
had suffered disaster from fire, the houses being built of wood
this is a considerable risk. We were shocked to realise the devastation
that had taken place in WW11. There had been a scorched earth
policy for the northern part of Norway and the photographs of
towns completely destroyed was something we shall not forget.
As it was mid summer and 24 hours
of daylight there was considerable activity in redecoration and
repair of houses, several were being reclad and the log cabin
type constuction was exposed to view.
In several towns there were groups
of preserved houses, not a lot different in their appearance but
those on the waterfront were clearly designed with fishing in
mind. We noticed fish hanging to dry in the open loft of one water
side house. Further north we saw huge "A" frames on
which the fish are hung to dry.
We left the E6 at Skaidi for the
the 45 mile run in to Hammerfest this road was not in such good
condition with several sections of road works and a new tunnel
under construction. There were reindeer by the roadside, curious
but a little timid, we stopped and took photos.
It was here that Jane decided it
was time to see how cold the sea was 600 miles above the Arctic
Circle, her verdict, about the same as Scotland in very early
summer.
We had 2 days at Hammerfest, time
to make the journey to the North Cape, a round trip of 260 miles.The
last part included the longest under sea road tunnel in the world.
Recently opened this is a light and easy tunnel compared to some
of those with rough hewn walls and poor lighting. The toll for
this tunnel was 170 Kr each way, quite expensive as you the are
charged a similar fee for the car park and entry to the North
Cape Hall.
A series of tunnels takes the road
to Honningsvag on Mageroya Island and replaces the ferry so shortens
the journey time considerably. Unfortunately this was one of our
wetter days, we enjoyed the film that was shown in the Hall but
without that we would have had little idea of the countryside.
Our return journey was in dense sea mist down the road with no
guard rails for much of the way. We were not sorry to be back
through the tunnels and on our way back to our warm hotel in Hammerfest.
We left next day on the coastal
steamer Narvik to make the 4 day voyage down the coast of Norway
visiting many towns, villages and island communities on the way.
On the boat we were in the company of our six fellow travellers
all of whom had followed roughly the same route from Bergen.
We were to loose Bill and Norma
at Tromso as their itinery south was different to the rest of
us. At midnight we watched in the evening sun light as they drove
of into the town to find their hotel. Scott and Barbara had spent
a few extra days in the south, John and Jane had followed almost
exactly the same route as us.
The "Coastal Voyage" back
to Bergen was full of interest, the boat stopped at many of the
islands so that the local produce could be transported south.
Despite this obvious commercial importance of the route there
was time to take the Narvik through the narrow entrance to the
Troll Fjord with its sheer rock walls. It hardly seemed possible
that we would pass through the gap.
Later the ship was diverted to enable
us to see the Troll's Cap. Arriving at Bergen we had to drive
across town to the quay where the Jupiter was waiting to take
us back to Newcastle. This proved to be a problem, all three cars
set out, we got lost and arrived back at the Narvik. Taking advice
from a helpful Norwegian lorry driver, probably the only one who
did not speak English, we tried again expecting to be last to
arrive. The route we were told to take this time proved to be
better and we found that we were second to arrive in the ferry
queue, John and Jane took advice from a Portugese gentleman who
offered to ride in their car to direct them as there were so many
one way streets. Once on board Jupiter we booked a table for our
last dinner together. We had enjoyed a fabulous holiday in excellent
company, one that would be hard to better.
John and Jane, were former MGB owners.They
had toured Norway in their B in the early 70s, John assured me
that the roads were much rougher then, more like the road work
sections today.
Arriving at Hammerfest we had not
long booked into our hotel when the owner of an MGA, Odd Enevold,
introduced himself he told us there was one other MGB in Hammerfest.
He very kindly offered us assistance should we need spares or
technical help. Apparently his friend saw our red B from his office
window and told Odd who quickly tracked us down.
On our travels we met many people
on their way to the Cape including a group of motorcyclists from
Rome who were road testing two new Ducatti motor cycles, an 11,000Km
round trip, and doing a write up on the perfomance of the bikes.
We also spoke to the driver of a Skoda Octavia from RAF Cranwell.
Next day they were taking part in a Cape to Cape run raising money
for the Lincolnshire Air Ambulance. They were to drive to Southern
Spain, observing all speed limits, within a 60 hour time limit.
Not much time to take in the scenery.
We covered 2000 miles in all through
a land of amazing bridges, waterfalls, tunnels and ferries. It
was a fantastic trip yet easy on both car and driver. The weather
varied from blue skies, sun and temperatures in the 80s to mid
40s, sea mist and heavy rain. Prefering to endure the rain we
ran hood down all the way to make the most of the wonderful if
at times damp scenery. The B ran well with just one puncture,
soon rectified by fitting the new tube we carried, fuel consumption
slightly better than the usual 30 mpg due to the steady speeds
on the Norwegian roads. Fuel prices similar to ours but not too
many filling stations so it was prudent to fill up each morning
before leaving civilisation.
We were just one of the vehicles
from many countries making the trip to the Nordkapp we hope that
they all enjoyed the experience as much as we did.
Jeremy and Jane Burr.